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More details. Why the extension (. Why sometimes video files are saved without ? I need to rename it manually. But a video file is not hosted on our server. In reality, a video file is hosted on a third- party server of video hosting/site. And so a third- party server of a video hosting (where a video clip is hosted) defines the File Extension (e. Downloading is boken : -(When I try to download a file, downloading is boken and I have to download again. Therefore you are downloading a video file not from us. It seems like a server of video hosting/site (where a video clip is hosted) is overloaded at the moment. Try to download a video again later.. Also, if your internet connection is very slow, stability of downloading isn't guaranteed. A video file isn't saved and starts playback automatically in a web browser : -(When I download a video clip, playback starts automatically. How to save video clip without auto playback? It seems that is not yet installed a suitable video codec on your device. You can try to download and install K- Lite Codec Pack for your system. Perhaps, your video player does not support the format of a downloaded video file. Try to install other video player. For a saved file the extension not . Try to rename a file to . Also you can use several different converters to get the video format that you want. How can I convert OGV video to other format? There are many good OVG Converters. You can choose here (depending on OS). Or you can find any another OGV Converter that can convert OGV video to all popular formats (MP4, MPG, AVI, WMV, MOV, PSP, 3. GP and more). Also you can use several different converters to get the video format that you want. I press the . After SAVEVIDEO. ME will have a successful search results - press a found direct link . SAVEVIDEO. ME will open automatically with ready found direct- links for download. Also see - Firefox Help. How to use a bookmarklet for video downloading in Apple Safari? Make Bookmarks Bar Visible in the browser, if the Bookmarks Bar is hidden. Go to the menu: Select . Set Show Favorites Bar to . Set Show Favorites Bar to . Ensure that it will be saving to the . Tap on the . Change the name to SAVEVIDEO. MENext, erase the URL shown and paste - the bookmarklet code for SAVEVIDEO. ME (press and hold, then release, then tap . Tap the bookmark icon to make it disappear. For i. Phone Safari: Create a temporary bookmark in iphone Safari. Tap the middle icon below, then tap Add Bookmark. And then tap Save. Copy the Bookmarklet code SAVEVIDEO. ME above. Tap the Bookmarks button in the toolbar. Tap Edit. Select the SAVEVIDEO. ME bookmark to edit. Tap its URL, tap the . Tap- and- hold for the magnifying glass. And then tap Paste. Now to download video clip from any of supported sites quickly - just press on the created bookmark . SAVEVIDEO. ME will open automatically with ready found direct- links for download. Find more information.. How to use a bookmarklet for video downloading in Opera (1. Click the right mouse button on the link . SAVEVIDEO. ME will open automatically with ready found direct- links for download. How to use a bookmarklet for video downloading in Google Chrome? Make Bookmarks Bar Visible in the browser, if the Bookmarks Bar is hidden. Use Chrome menu on the browser toolbar. Or (for Mac OS X) go to the menu: Select . See - Chrome Help. Drag the bookmarklet- link . Then paste copied code instead of the address of the new bookmark in your mobile device. And Save it. For i. OS Google Chrome users see - video about bookmarklets. Now to download video clip from any of supported sites quickly - just press on the created bookmark . SAVEVIDEO. ME will open automatically with ready found direct- links for download. Find more information.. 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L293d Motor Driver Datasheet Download MoviesBelow is the block diagram for the whole project: Required Parts. 1 x ATMega8; 1 x L293D motor driver; 1 x HC-05 Bluetooth module; 1 x 16MHz Crystal; 1 x AMS 1117 5V. Keywords: resources: winbond w86c451: Serial, Parallel and Game port ISA interface card Unique. Winbond W86C451 data sheet (PDF -764Kb). L293D datasheet, L293D pdf, L293D data sheet, datasheet, data sheet, pdf, SGS Thomson Microelectronics, PUSH-PULL FOUR CHANNEL DRIVER WITH DIODES. See all datasheet catalog with all electronic components: led datasheet, transistors and other components. You only have to supply it one voltage (between 2. V). The other 4 pins control the direction and speed of the motors. Pin A- IA and A- IB control motor A, and Pin B- IA and B- IB control motor B. To control motor A you set pin A- IA high and pin A- IB low, to change the direction you just set pin A- IA low and pin A- IB high. Same thing for motor B. If you want to control the speed of both motors you will need 4 pwm pins. Instead of just setting a pin high you pwm it. I tested the board with 2 small dc motors and fed the chip 5. V, the output voltage at full pwm was 4. V. Here is the sketch to test the module with 2 small DC motors. L9. 11. 0 motor driver controlling 2 small DC motors. AIA = 9; // (pwm) pin 9 connected to pin A- IA. AIB = 5; // (pwm) pin 5 connected to pin A- IB. BIA = 1. 0; // (pwm) pin 1. B- IA. const int BIB = 6; // (pwm) pin 6 connected to pin B- IB. Brushless DC (BLDC) motor with Arduino. Part 3 – The Stroboscope Project. It has been all dry theory in the Brushless DC (BLDC) motor with Arduino series up to this point. This is where it gets to be more fun. If you’ve just arrived, please check out the previous two installments: Driving a three- phase brushless DC motor with Arduino – Part 1. Theory. Brushless DC (BLDC) motor with Arduino – Part 2. Circuit and Software. In this final part of the trilogy I am describing the hardware part of the stroboscope project and the making of the zoetrope animations themselves, in hopes that my visitors can take this further and come up with their own animations, which I would absolutely love to see. More details below! As far as DIY user- friendliness, Xbox 3. DVD BLDC motors stand above the rest. During my search for a perfect donor DVD- RW drive for a (still coming) miniature laser cutter project, I came into possession of some insane amount of broken CD,DVD and Bluray drives and at some point I came across a bunch of broken Xbox 3. Bay that piqued my interest. Once I got them I realized that their main feature is not so much the laser sled positioning mechanism which I was after but rather the three phase BLDC spindle motor that rather basic design which is very compatible with DIY process – no ribbon cables were used. All three windings are conveniently traced to the outside PCB that’s easily solderable. I would have to say that at least one of the Xbox drives I’ve looked into did have a ribbon cable but the ribbon cable ends were not too close together and rather easily solderable themselves. So, if you are interested in this project or just generally in playing with small BLDC motors, definitely do look up broken Xbox drives – they are plentiful and very cheap. Essential parts of the Arduino Stroboscope project. The Xbox 3. 60 DVD drive has donated another important part of the project – the frame which holds both the spindle drive and the LED. It already had the mounting holes for the BLDC motor and devising a bracket to hold the LED was just a matter of bending some sheet aluminum left over from another DVD drive teardown. I opted to have the business end of the stroboscope – the motor and the LED – to be detachable from the Arduino “brains” because I wanted to do a lot of testing and playing with other motors using the same electronics. But if you’re making it a stationary device, the connector between the Arduino Development Shield and the motor frame is completely optional. Additionally, I imagine that with a bit of tweaking the Arduino stack can actually be mounted to the underside of the motor frame (which will have to be raised on some sort of standoffs) to make the entire device even smaller. Arduino Stroboscope Circuit Diagram. The circuit itself was built on an Arduino Breadboard Development Shield, sans the breadboard. I like the flexibility of the Development Shield even though this circuit could have been implemented using the Motor control shield instead. By the way, I have a feeling that Arduino Breadboard Development Shield no longer refers to a particular PCB because there are at least a couple of different ones out there that I saw. But any kind will do for this project – very limited space is actually needed, just one 1. IC, a 5- pin connector, a button and an LED (normally a part of any development shield) and a space for a potentiometer. Please note: even though the photo shows two orange pots on the left of the shield, I ended up using only one to control the rotational speed of the zoetrope animation. The second pot was supposed to control the duration of the flash but I’ve since found that the said duration can only be within a very narrow range (2 to 4ms or 1/5. I simply set it with a constant in the code instead. Being able to control the flash duration in real time did not seem to add much to the project. Only a few more components were added to the circuit diagram from the Part 2 of this series of posts, the one that describes the circuit and the software for controlling the BLDC motor. The added parts are the MCU itself (Arduino) and a few controls – the RPM control pot and the direction control button (with the LED to show the direction). The fourth quarter of the QUADRUPLE Half- H Driver SN7. LED. One part of the new scheme that requires some further explanation is the jumpers JP1 and JP2. I have found that the SN7. NE driver gets pretty hot if the stroboscope is left on for a long time. The resistivity of the windings is only 4. So, I’ve tried two ways of lowering the load supply voltage: lower it some 0. V by first passing it through the D1 diode (short JP2, open JP1) or take the 3. V output from Arduino (short JP1, open JP2). The latter seems to be the best way of controlling overheating. It could have been dropped even more but in the actual DVD I believe the motor is commutated with 1. V and we don’t have such low source on a *uino. I’ve been too lazy to check for sure but I’ve seen an 1. V regulator pretty much every time next to the DVD driver IC. Please be warned, however, that the current the motor draws from the Arduino 3. V regulator seems a bit too much (still pretty high @ 7. A ) and the Arduino’s USB communication stops working. Animation #1 - Rumba. Now with the electronics part out of the way, the only remaining detail, although not an insignificant one, is the actual zoetrope animations. It looked like the figures could be far enough apart and yet enough of them will fit onto a rim of a CD to show a motion complex enough to build this whole project for. The size of the figures was picked specifically to fit a laser cutter made from a DVD. Therefore the length of each piece is limited to only 1. However, I think it’s a perfect size for the diameter of a CD anyway. The source files are included in both SVG and NGC (CNC) format. So, if you don’t have a laser cutter, even a DIY one, you can print the figures out on a card stock paper and cut them out with scissors (this will be tough) or, quite possibly, make use of an electronic cutter machine connected to a PC. 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Zoetrope animation created with Stykz As you can see from my animation ambitiously called “dance. I am not much of an expert in Stykz and have to refer you to their Web site tutorials for any finer points in using the software. But suffice it to say here that Stykz is very useful in zoetrope animations in many ways. First of all, you can set the exact amount of frames you need (1. PNG format that can be easily traced (vectorized) by Inkscape, which is exactly what I did with my little jumping (pardon, dancing) guy. Had I known more about choreography or dance, I’m sure I could do much better by Stykz and so my hopes are that my readers will be able to use the software to its full potential and amaze my with the results by sending me some photos of their own animations. Once you’ve cut the figures from your medium of choice, be sure to keep them in the exact order before gluing them to the CD and, preferably, glue them on right away. 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Scan the firewall from both the outside and inside for a grommet that’s convenient to your battery. You may have to peel back the carpet in the interior for a better view. Look for an empty rubber grommet that’s covering an unused factory hole. That way you can just poke a hole through the grommet and run your power cable through. If you can’t find one, then you’ll have to drill your own. Always start with a pilot hole to confirm you’re not going to spear anything on the other side. Once your hole is just big enough to pass the cable, protect the edges of the hole with some paint or rust inhibitor like POR- 1. Don’t skip this step or you’ll have rust starting a party on your firewall! Once the paint is dry, install a rubber grommet or firewall bushing into the hole to protect your cable from chaffing against the sharp metal edges. Run the power cable through the grommet from the inside of the car with the ring terminal going towards the battery. It’s much easier to run a few feet of wire up to the battery from the inside rather than the entire length from the battery side. But if your power cable already comes with a fuse holder attached to it then you’ll have to go in through the engine bay otherwise you won’t be able to get the fuse holder through the hole in the firewall. As you route the cable inside the engine bay be sure the cable is far enough away from moving engine parts and anything that could pinch it. Check to see if there’s a gap where the cable goes through the grommet. You don’t want water to run down the cable and into your car. Caulk any gaps around the inner edge of the grommet if necessary. Leave the power cable disconnected from the battery for now. Installing a Fuse Holder. In most cases you’re going to have to cut your power cable near the battery to install a fuse holder inline with the cable. Most wiring kits come with the correct fuse and fuse holder but if you have to buy one separately, the fuse size depends on the maximum current draw of your system. You can usually find this information in the instruction manual, on the manufacturer’s website or by calling the product’s tech support line. Look for a place to anchor your fuse holder within 1. This fuse plays an extremely important role in protecting your car from a fire if the power wire shorts out. The length of wire between the battery terminal and the fuse will be unprotected and that’s why you want this length to be as short as possible. Once you decide on a good place to put the fuse holder, cut your power cable accordingly and sandwich the fuse holder between the ends. Use self- tapping screws to secure the fuse holder in place. Don’t put the actual fuse inside until the entire installation is complete! You may now connect the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not to the battery post itself) by removing the terminal’s nut, slipping the power cable’s ring over the stud and replacing the nut. Routing Through the Interior. The main objective is to conceal your wiring not only for safety but to give your install a clean and professional look. Always use the most direct route for your power cable and wiring. Depending on the location of the amp, you may need to remove the kick panel, pillar trim panel, door scuff plate, rear seats and pull up just enough carpet to facilitate the routing process. Snake the power cable underneath the carpet or behind trim all the way to the amp while avoiding any pinch points like seat tracks or door jambs. At some point once you reach the amp, the power cable is going to have to come out from behind the trim or underneath the carpet to connect to the amp. A good technique is to cut a little slit in the carpet to allow the power cable to pop out right at the connection point. Connect the Ground Cable. Your ground cable should be short and the same diameter (gauge) as your power cable. Look for a grounding bolt nearby. This can be any bolt going through the metal of your car. Scrape away any paint on the bolt and clean the grounding surface thoroughly to get better contact between the negative cable’s terminal ring and vehicle ground. Improper grounding is the primary cause of audio noise problems. Slip the terminal ring over the bolt and tighten it back down so the ring is in good contact with the vehicle’s metal chassis. If you can’t find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one. Be sure you know what you may be drilling into on the other side! This is especially important when you’re near the gas tank, gas line or brake line. An oops moment here could have you going through the tank, causing a spark and accidentally starring in the next Die Hard sequel – the “Ball of Fire” edition. Whatever method you choose, always finish by covering the connection with paint or other rust- blocker to prevent corrosion. Cut a slit in the carpet like you did for the power cable so the negative (ground) cable can connect to the amp. Run the Remote Turn- on Lead. The remote wire is responsible for turning your amplifier on and off in conjunction with your receiver or head unit. Whenever the receiver is powered up, it outputs voltage that travels down this wire to “tell” your amp to turn on too – your system won’t work without it. Connecting to an Aftermarket Head Unit. Pull your head unit out of the dash so you can access the wiring in the back. Route your remote wire (usually blue) from the amp along the same path as your power cable and then branch off to go under the dash and to the back of your head unit. Aftermarket head units will generally have a remote turn on lead coming out of the back that you can splice into. Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the head unit, wrap the turn on lead you just ran from the amp around it and solder. |
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